Textile fragment with chevrons and interlacing scrollsOn display
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Textile fragment with chevrons and interlacing scrolls
Material and technique
linen, embroidered with blue cotton
Dimensions27 x 8.5 cm max. (length x width)
along length/width 24 / 24 threads/cm (thread count)
ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
ground fabric 0.01 cm min. (thread diameter)
additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
No. of items
Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.
Museum locationLower ground floor | Gallery 5 | Textiles
A band of wide chevrons contains a meander strip; the chevrons have small crescents at their peaks. Additional ?crescent-shapes are set between the chevrons. Parallel to the chevron band is a narrow border with scrolling interlace.
In: Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum
The pattern for this zigzag band is the same as one of those recorded on sampler No.24 [EA1984.490]. When the two are compared, it becomes clear how much threaded outlines have added to the visual impact of this fascinating embroidered band. Although the band is composed of geometric S- and Z-shapes linked to diamonds, there is a feeling of movement, almost that of a twisted ribbon. Precisely the same pattern appears on a much later embroidery, also with the design in reserve, which is attributed to the Greek Islands (see Symonds and Preece, Needlework through the Ages). This is one of several examples which suggest a definite link between Mamluk and later Greek Island needlework.
In: Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001)
Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, vol. ii, vol. i
Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 26 on p. 42, p. 9, illus. p. 42