Sampler fragment with S-shapes and hooks

On display

Details

  • Title

    Sampler fragment with S-shapes and hooks

  • Associated place

    Egypt (find spot)
    Fustat (possible) (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
  • Date

  • Material and technique

    three pieces of linen, embroidered with light-blue and dark-blue thread, possibly cotton; joined with stitching in flax

  • Material index

    linen;
    cotton;
    flax
  • Technique index

  • Object type

  • Dimensions

    22 x 16 cm (length x width)
    ground fabric 1, along length/width 17 / 18 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 2, along length/width 20 / 18 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 3, along length/width 20 / 19 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.06 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.04 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.07 cm (thread diameter)
  • No. of items

    1

  • Credit line

    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.

  • Museum location

    Lower ground floor | Gallery 5 | Textiles
  • Museum department

    Eastern Art

  • Accession no.

    EA1984.490

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  • Catalogue text

    A sampler fragment with six rectangles, two squares set up as diamonds and linked to triangles, and a chevron. They are filled with S-shapes, hook motifs, and continuous curving lines.

    The fragment is sewn together from three linen pieces.

    In: Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum

    The nine band patterns recorded on this sampler are embroidered so that the motifs are in reserve; the ground is covered in little dots formed by pattern darning in running stitches over and under two threads in alternate lines. Sometimes the ‘voided areas’ have been defined by threading cotton through the stitches along the edges, adding emphasis to the linear quality of the design.

    A substantial number of fragments in the collection were worked in this manner, ranging from ones with narrow and wide bands of geometric pattern to others with repeating motifs placed in offset rows. The S-and Z-shapes, double arrowheads, stars and whirling rosettes, so typical of Mamluk design, look particularly effective when thrown into relief by this arrangement of pattern darning.

    In: Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001)

Further reading

Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 24 on p. 40, pp. 42-43, illus. p. 40

Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, vol. iii, vol. i

Reference URL

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