Textile fragment with band of chevrons and trefoil finials

Details

  • Title

    Textile fragment with band of chevrons and trefoil finials

  • Associated place

    Egypt (find spot)
    Fustat (possible) (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
  • Date

    14th century (1301 - 1400)
    Mamluk Period (1250 - 1517)
  • Material and technique

    linen, embroidered with silk

  • Material index

  • Technique index

  • Object type

  • Dimensions

    42.5 x 8 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 19 / 19 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.07 cm (thread diameter)
  • No. of items

    1

  • Credit line

    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.

  • Museum location

    not on display

  • Museum department

    Eastern Art

  • Accession no.

    EA1993.156

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  • Catalogue text

    A band with chevrons and trefoil finials.

    In: Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum

    This type of decoration of zigzag counterchange patterns can still be seen in 14th and 15th century Cairo architectural decoration. Evidently it appealed to textile designers, for elegant repeating zigzag bands decorated with fleurs-de-lys and naskhi script appear on a Mamluk woven silk, now divided among four museums in Europe and North America. Here the embroidery is far less grand, with no calligraphy, but is nevertheless impressive. By choosing to work it in close counted herringbone stitch, the embroiderer has produced a dense, slightly raised effect that adds a textural quality to the work and increases the contrast between the embroidered areas and those left in reserve.

    In: Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001)

Further reading

Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 38 on p. 56, illus. p. 56

Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, p. 117 (vol. iv), vol. iv p. 117

Reference URL

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