Textile fragment with band of cartouches and S-shapes

Details

  • Title

    Textile fragment with band of cartouches and S-shapes

  • Associated place

    Egypt (find spot)
    Fustat (possible) (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
  • Date

  • Material and technique

    linen, embroidered with coloured silk; needle-woven bars on drawn-thread openwork

  • Material index

  • Technique index

  • Object type

  • Dimensions

    29.5 x 3.5 cm (length x width)
    embroidery band 29.5 x 1.5 cm (length x width)
    along length/width 26 / 26 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm max. (thread diameter)
    ground fabric 0.03 cm min. (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
  • No. of items

    1

  • Credit line

    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.

  • Museum location

    not on display

  • Museum department

    Eastern Art

  • Accession no.

    EA1984.426

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  • Catalogue text

    A narrow blue band with a dark blue border, filled alternately with white cartouches with black frames, and white horizontal S-shapes with black borders.

    The band is 1.5 cm wide. The patterning of the band is apparently done with needle-woven bars on drawn thread.

    In: Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum

    The four repeating patterns illustrated here [EA1984.443, EA1984.329.a, EA1984.426, EA1984.435] provide us with a glimpse of some of the designs and stitches worked as narrow bands of decoration. The usual format for arranging bands of embroidery on square and rectangular cloths, as seen on the Newberry pieces, leaves the centre ground fabric plain and places three parallel bands along two opposite sides and one across each of the other two. However, two samplers in the collection show how patterns should be adjusted to turn corners, so it is clear that some embroideries did have continuous borders.

    The embroidery worked on the bands was sometimes very fine indeed; an example in the collection is even finer than that seen on No.60 [EA1984.329.a], where an interlace pattern has been carried out in stem stitch over a count of four threads on a cloth with a thread count of 36 to one centimetre. The patterns, colours and stitches illustrated here demonstrate the refined nature of this embroidery from the later period of Mamluk rule in Egypt.

    In: Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001)

Further reading

Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 61 on p. 88, illus. p. 89

Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, vol. iii, vol. i

Reference URL

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