Textile fragment with bands of inverted hooks, flowers, and triangles

Details

  • Title

    Textile fragment with bands of inverted hooks, flowers, and triangles

  • Associated place

    Egypt (find spot)
    Fustat (possible) (possible find spot)
    Near East (place of creation)
  • Date

  • Material and technique

    linen, embroidered with blue cotton

  • Material index

    linen;
    cotton
  • Technique index

  • Object type

  • Dimensions

    31 x 14.5 cm max. (length x width)
    along length/width 18 / 18 threads/cm (thread count)
    ground fabric 0.05 cm (thread diameter)
    additional fibre, embroidery 0.06 cm (thread diameter)
  • No. of items

    1

  • Credit line

    Presented by Professor Percy Newberry, 1941.

  • Museum location

    not on display

  • Museum department

    Eastern Art

  • Accession no.

    EA1984.154

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  • Catalogue text

    Three bands are grouped together, and a fourth one runs parallel. The latter is identical to the central band of the group of three. It contains inverted hook motifs, eight-petalled flowers, and small triangles. The two bands on either side of the central one are narrow and contain small darts and s-shapes. The embroidery provides the background.

    In: Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum

    The patterns on this fragment are almost the same as some worked on sampler No. 24 [EA1984.490]. The most noticeable difference is that eight-pointed stars alternate with S-shapes on this embroidery and with Zs on the sampler. It is interesting to see how the decoration has been built up, presumably from a sampler like No.24, by selecting two narrow bands to lie on either side of the wider one and then repeating the wide one again for emphasis. The narrow bands balance each other with S-shapes on one and Z-shapes on the other. This predilection for symmetry is one of the hallmarks of Mamluk embroidery.

    In: Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001)

Further reading

Ellis, Marianne, Embroideries and Samplers from Islamic Egypt (Oxford: Ashmolean Museum, in association with Greenville: Curious Works Press, 2001), no. 27 on p. 43, illus. p. 43

Barnes, Ruth and Marianne Ellis, ‘The Newberry Collection of Islamic Embroideries’, 4 vols, 2001, Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, vol. ii, vol. i

Reference URL

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